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KEEPING YOUR SPRINGER HEALTHY

 So you have carefully purchased a well bred and healthy puppy from a good breeder, or you have just taken on a Springer from a rescue organisation. You want to keep your dog fit and healthy so what sort of things should you be doing to keep the spring in your Springer

 Smudge - a shining example of a fit and healthy Springer.

choosing a vet

Choosing a good vet is essential, whether you are getting a new puppy, or a rescue dog, a good vet will help you throughout the lifetime of your Springer.

There are normally a good selection of practices in your area, don't just go to the closest. Personal recommendation is a good starting point, talk to other pet owners in your area.  Have a look in the yellow pages, check out all the practices in your area, remember you want to be able to get there in an emergency so not too far away. Another port of call is the "find a vet" service at the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons website, www.rcvs.org.uk. Select 2 or 3 practices and then do a bit of research, why not even visit the practice to help your decision, here are a few guidelines that might help

What to Look for

  • Appearance - are the waiting rooms clean and welcoming and are the staff friendly and helpful.
  • Location - close enough to get to in an emergency and adequate parking
  • Opening Times - When is the practice open for general appointments, remember if you work then mid day appointments will be no use. Do they have an open surgery time.
  • Are there any special clinics like weight watchers or puppy clinics.
  • If the practice has many vets can you request to see the same vet each time
  • Do any of the vets have additional qualifications that may come in handy, some vets offer homeopathy, accupuncture etc
  • What happens if your Springer needs to be hospitalised overnight, will somebody be looking after it.
  • What happens if your Springer needs referrals for specialist treatments.
  • What are the arrangements for out of hours emergencies, will a vet come to your house.
  • What are the costs of routine procedures such as worming, neutering and vaccination.
  • Does the vet offer payment plans if you need major treatment.

VACCINATIONS

Puppy Vaccinations

This is one area of dog ownership where you can't afford to take any shortcuts. Puppy vaccinations are essential and any vet that has had to watch a young puppy die from diseases such as parvo, which could have been prevented with vaccination, will tell you the same.

Some puppies may have had their first vaccination before you get them from the breeder, which is a temporary vaccination against canine distemper, hepatitis and parvovirus, however if your breeder does not mention it then just assume the puppy has had no vaccinations when you get it. At nine weeks the puppy should be vaccinated against distemper, Parvovirus, infectious canine hepatitis, and possibly (take your vets advice) kennel cough. Your Springer puppy will then need a booster 3 weeks later (this time span can vary depending on your vet). Do not allow your puppy to run about until it has had its 2nd course of injections, contact with unvaccinated animals can be fatal, and therefore not worth the risk. To continue socialising your puppy carry it to areas where it can meet and greet lots of different people, and arrange to introduce your puppy to the dogs of friends if they are fully vaccinated. One suggestion is to put your Springer puppy in a backpack so that they can go everywhere with you, but be nice and safe.

Annual Vaccinations

This is where the debate arises. Previously most of us would have simply considered ourselves unfit owners if our dogs didn't get their annual boosters on time, however new research is allowing us to openly question the policy of mass vaccination. There has been alot of research recently that has highlighted the dangers of over-vaccination, and shown that the dogs may be immune to diseases for years, rather than the 12 months that our vets used to tell us. If you are interested in learning more about vaccinations then speak to your vet, they will be aware of the research and should already be considering long term solutions such as boosters that last up to 3 years etc. Also why not check out the forum and discuss the pro's and cons of vaccination with other Springer owners. Be aware that most kennels will want you to have all your vaccinations up to date so you must consider all angles. There are some interesting books available, and plenty of info on the internet and in dog magazines.

If you are confused or concerned then continue to get all your vaccinations done every year, I am only highlighting the information so that you can make an informed decision.

 

WORMS

 Worms, the mention of the word normally gives us the shivers, but it is vital that any Springer owner is fully aware of the importance of regular worming and the damage worms can do if left untreated. Severe infestations can cause all sorts of problems including diarrhoea, weight loss, constipation, coughing and breathing difficulties. Other more worrying symptoms can include lung and heart disease and some dogs, especially puppies can die as a result of their worm burden. By worming your Springer regularly you can avoid these problems as well as the potential risk of passing the worms on to other animals or even humans.

 There are 2 common types of worm in the UK

  • Roundworms
  • Tapeworms

Roundworms - often described as spaghetti or thread-like, are long and narrow. They spend most of their time in the gut where they can cause indigestion problems, although occasionally they can be seen in vomit or faeces. While in the gut they absorb vital nutrients from your dogs food, preventing your dog from doing the same and this therefore causes hunger and weight loss.

Tapeworms - these have a distinct, flattish segmental structure and they anchor themselves to the intestinal wall by their mouthparts. These also absorb vital nutrients form the dogs food. Tapeworms produce eggs which are deposited in the dog faeces, if the faeces is not disposed of then after a few weeks it is these eggs which can cause the illness Toxocara, the illness that can cause blindness in very rare cases.

Dogs should be wormed every 4 months using a good general wormer, ideally purchased from either your vet, or if you have a number of dogs you can save money by using an online vet pharmacy.

Worms and Puppies - Your breeder should have started your puppy on a worming schedule at 4 weeks old as the puppy will absorb worms from the mothers milk. The puppy should then be wormed every 3 weeks until it is is 3 months old, if your breeder did not give you worming advice speak to your vet and make sure you get a course of worming tablets/paste. Puppies can become very ill very quickly, and quite often a chubby puppy can simply be carrying a large worm burden which is removing all nourishment from the puppies food. Puppies will quite often expel their worm burden through vomiting, and this can give you quite a shock, but don't worry if you are using a worming schedule this is just the way the puppies body rids itself of the worms, it often looks like spaghetti.

TICKS

Ticks have become so much more common in the last few years and seem to affect dogs all over the country throughout most of the year so you need to always be prepared to deal with ticks. The most common are sheep ticks and hedgehog ticks. Ticks are more commonly found in long grasses, fields where sheep have been, moorland and woodland. The hedgehog tick can also be found in your garden from infested nests and burrows of hedgehogs. The first sign that you will see of a tick on your pet is a small grey dot which has attached itself to your pets skin. As the tick feeds on the blood of the animal it gets larger, many people mistake it for a wart or lump that has suddenly appeared on their pet. When the tick has fed it can be as big as a pea or bean, making it fairly noticeable on your pet.

How do I know if my dog has a tick? - the most common way we find ticks on our dogs is when we are grooming or stroking our dogs we feel a lump. Its a question alot of people have asked on the forum and here is a common question..
"When brushing Ruby tonight I have noticed something behind her ear.  It sticks straight out from the skin and is the size of a fat grain of rice. I am sure I would have noticed it before and don't know if it a skin tag (as it look kind of like her skin colour) or a tick".
Suffice to say, it was a tick, and if you have never had a dog before or you have just walked in a tick area and aren't used to them then here are a few guidelines for spotting them.
Ticks tend to attatch to areas where there is less fur so the are most commonly found around the head and ears, places like eyebrows seem to be popular. They attatch to drink blood so they want a place with a good blood flow.
Ticks can be anything from small black dots about 3-4mm, or fat and engorged they are about the size of a coffee bean. Most commonly they will be anything from 4mm upwards. They are either black, grey, reddish or skin coloured so treat most lumps with the caution that its a tick (skin tags and warts will normally have a jagged edge whereas a tick is round and smooth). If you are concerned its a skin tag or wart then try putting some neat teat tree oil on it, safe for the skin but if its a tick it will drop off, alchohol will also encourage a tick to drop off.
 
 Here is a classic picture of a tick, this one has obviously eaten, hence the reddish tinge. As you can see they are very round and smooth and their legs and head are all clumped at one end on the left - the mouthpart is sticking out on the left and this is why its easy to pull a tick off but leave the mouthpart and the tick is holding on tight.

How do I remove a tick?? - The safest and easiest way to remove a tick is to buy a tick removal hook from your vets or pet shop. All pet shops and vets have them these days and they are a lifeline - buy 2 packs and leave 1 in your car first aid kit.  Here is a picture of the O'Tom tick removal hook and some instructions on how to use it, its very simple and because of the twisting action the tick is removed safely. http://www.lymediseaseaction.org.uk/information/tick_removal.htm - this website is also very good for tick info.
 
 This nasty lump on Daisys face is an infected tick bite - Daisy had scratched the tick and taken the body off, leaving the head. Removing ticks safely is vital, do not use tweezers or your fingers because if you leave the head behind the wound will be infected very quickly because the tick has opened a blood supply to drink.


 

NEUTERING

Neutering, also referred to as spaying in bitches and castration in dogs, involves the surgical removal of the reproductive organs in a dog. In bitches an ovaro-hysterectomy is carried out, whereby the abdomen is opened and the womb and ovaries removed, therefore meaning the bitch will no longer come into season and she cannot become pregnant. In dogs the scrotum is opened and the testicles removed, this involves a minor incision into the scrotum and does not involve internal surgery.

POSITIVE POINTS OF NEUTERING

  • Bitches will not develop the life threatening infection of the womb, pyometra, an infection not that uncommon in older un-spayed bitches.
  • Prevents unwanted puppies, there are enough unwanted puppies in the UK without adding to those numbers
  • Avoid testicular cancer and prostate cancer in dogs
  • Can help with aggressive and anti-social behaviour, though only when combined with some kind of training
  • Decreases the chances of mammary tumours in bitches
  • Spaying can also help with aggression and hyperactivity in bitches
  • Epileptic bitches will suffer more fits when in season, and diabetes is also easier to stabilise if the bitch is spayed.
  • Relieves the stress of hormonal changes and frustration, especially in dogs.
  • Can also help with dogs that stray as they are generally on the scent of a bitch in season.

NEGATIVE POINTS OF NEUTERING

  • Even though it is routine surgery it is fairly major surgery in a bitch and therefore carries the same risks as any other form of surgery.
  • The procedure is not reversible so you cannot decide later that you want to breed from your dog
  • It can take a while for bitches to recover from being spayed, it is a painful operation and they may need some pain medication for a few days.
  • The incidence of urinary incontinence is thought to be greater in spayed than unspayed bitches, this is due to the importance of female hormones in the workings of the bladder muscles.

Neutering can vary in cost depending on where you are in the country, but normally starts at around £70 upwards, and can have additional costs such as pain medication and a buster collar which some vets will insist on so that your Springer cannot get their stitches out. These are useful for Springer's as they are very good at getting stitches out. Ring round your local vets and compare prices. If you are on a low income then their are a number of schemes around the country that may be able to help, try ringing your local RSPCA, Dogs Trust etc to find out more. Neutering is not covered by insurance as they are considered elective surgeries

AFTER THE OP

Springer's are very active so it is advised to stick to on lead exercise for 2 weeks, but you know your own dog so if you think they are well in themselves then don't worry too much about attending training classes etc, most Springer's are as right as rain after a few days, and 2 weeks can seem a very long time if they are bored, keep them active by training and gentle walking. It can take about 6 weeks upwards for the effects of castration to become obvious, if they do at all, some dogs will be noticeably calmer but other will seem no different, it is not a miracle cure unfortunately.

Some people will tell you that spaying makes dogs fat, it is because the metabolism is affected by the sex hormones and can slow after neutering. Watch your dogs weight carefully and adjust it accordingly.

WHEN TO NEUTER

There is alot of discussion about the best time to neuter, and I am not going to tell you the best time, because there isn't one. My vet advises bitches should be spayed after their first season and dogs when they are about 8 months old, however some people now claim that dogs should be neutered earlier and others claim that early neutering can lead to aggression problems. Speak to your vet and other Springer owners, and then decide what you think is best, but have a look on the internet at some of the arguments so at least you are making an informed decision.

OTHER OPTIONS

If you are concerned about castrating your dog and want to know the effects of castration then you can speak to your vet about chemical castration, whereby the dog is given an anti-testosterone drug which will mimic the effect of castration, it lasts about 28 days, but is not cheap, and may not be completely effective, and your dog can still mate with females so it is not a safe option if you have a bitch coming into season. Bitches can also be given drugs to suppress their season, it is not 100% reliable, bitches can still come into season and still be mated, the drugs also have some side effects.

COMMON MISCONCEPTIONS

Dogs - Lose their character.

Bitches - they need to have a litter before being spayed, it changes their personality and it makes them fat.